by Paula Maack
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Author: Paula
May 12, 2009
One of the greatest things about the food blogosphere, is the evolution of ideas as they funnel through the inspiration grapevine.
This recipe is a perfect example.
On May 1st (otherwise known as Beltaine, or May Day for some of us), David Lebovitz unveiled an unorthodox method of tart shell baking that he acquired from Madame Paule Caillat, a Parisian cooking instructor. Madame Caillat’s method, which was handed down among French families for generations and came to her via her husband’s grandmother, calls for the melting of butter prior to mixing with the flour.
Anyone with a modicum of baking experience should find this method highly unusual. Yet, it is quite effective, nonetheless. And, it’s easier than pie!
Since then, it has been tarts galore everywhere I click. Following David’s post, Nicole Weston of Baking Bites posted a simplified version Paule Caillat’s recipe, utilizing the stove top - instead of the oven - to melt the butter. Nicole then takes the process a step further, and browns the butter. This version of Nicole’s made me jump up from my seat and make this tart on the spot. Her recipe for Browned Butter Tart Dough can be found here.
I have enjoyed Nicole’s recipes in the past, and was eager to give this a try, as I was already planning to make a pineapple tart with David’s tart shell, and Nicole’s version would add more depth with the caramelized pineapples.
Since pineapples are so sweet, especially when caramelized with brown sugar, I decided to go with an uncooked pastry cream using a cream cheese base, to which I added creme fraiche, lemon juice and lemon zest for added tang.
The result was phenomenal. I am making it again tonight because we just have to have it - again! Aside from the Tart Tatin at Berthillon, and the Raspberry Tart at Michel Richard (when they are in season), this is my all-time favorite tart. In fact, I think it may be be tied with Michel Richard’s Raspberry Tart, if it’s not — gasp! — even better.
Recipe for Caramelized Pineapple Brown Butter Tart after the jump.
Recipe for Caramelized Pineapple Brown Butter Tart
1 Brown Butter Tart Shell (recipe below) 1 1/2 cups Cream Cheese Pastry Cream (recipe below) Caramelized Pineapples (recipe below) Pineapple Glaze (recipe below)Turn pastry cream out into cooled tart shell and smooth over shell until even. Arrange caramelized pineapples over pastry cream in tart shell. Brush with glaze and cool for at least 20 minutes to allow glaze to set.
Slice tart into wedges and serve.
Recipe for Brown Butter Tart Shell
A modified version of Paule, David and Nicole’s recipes.
Preparation Method:
Preheat oven to 400F degrees.
Combine first five ingredients in saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until butter start to turn brown and smell nutty (about 20 minutes) The butter should be light tan in color. Do not let it overcook.
Add flour to pan and stir until it forms a ball of dough. Remove from heat and turn out into tart pan. Allow to cool for a few moments before working into pan.
Once tart shell is shaped, pierce several times with a fork, and place in oven for 12 - 15 minutes. Remove when nicely golden.
Recipe for Cream Cheese Pastry Cream
Ingredients: 4 oz. Cream Cheese 3 oz. Creme Fraiche 6 oz. Whipping Cream 1/2 cup Powdered Sugar 1 teaspoon Lemon Juice 1/2 tsp Lemon Zest 1/2 tsp VanillaPreparation method:
Beat cream cheese and creme fraiche until smooth. Slowly add whipping cream in a stream and add powdered sugar a little a time, to taste. Beat until mixture resembles stiffly whipped cream. Do not over beat or mixture will break.
Stir in lemon juice, lemon zest and vanilla. Chill until ready to use (can be made up to 2-3 days in advance).
Recipe for Caramelized Pineapples
Ingredients: 1 Ripe Pineapple - cored, paired and cut into small chunks (I made mine about 1/2″ x 1/4″ x 1″) 1 cup Brown Sugar (or more to taste)Preparation Method:
Place pineapples and any run-off juices in a non-metal rectangular cake pan. Sprinkle generously with brown sugar. Place under broiler for a few minutes, checking regularly, until caramelized on top. Remove and stir pineapple chunks in pan, return to broiler and broil a few minutes longer until caramelized to your satisfaction. Avoid burning your pineapples - if you burn a few on top, remove them. When pineapples are beautifully golden and caramelized, remove from oven.
With slotted spoon, remove pineapples and set aside. Reserve pineapple liquor (the liquid in the baking pan) for glaze (below).
Recipe for Pineapple Glaze
Ingredients: Pineapple Liquor (the juices from the pineapple and liquid in baking pan) 4 oz. Preserves (Apricot-Pineapple, Gooseberry, Orange Marmalade, Peach, Pear or Strawberry are fine choices)Preparation Method:
Pour pineapple liquor into a saucepan. Add preserves (I used gooseberry, since I didn’t have apricot-pineapple on hand) and stir over low heat until smooth and thickened slightly. Remove from heat and cool.
Enjoy!!!
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| «« Cook & Tell: Hearts of Palm Salad | | Home | | From Venice, Italy: The Lemon Sorbetto Cocktail »» |
You should check the quantities in the recipe. I followed it for the dough and even after adding 10 extra tablespoons of flour, the dough still did not form a ball.
May 16th, 2009 at 9:56 amIn David’s recipe, it is 150 g flour for 90 g butter and you have 280 g flour (about double) for 340 (!!!) g butter.
Interesting. I have made this tart shell three times, so far. The first time I followed Nicole’s version with the two extra tablespoons of flour per cup (5 oz), and it was too dry and needed less flour. So I adjusted it with less flour for two more tries and it was perfect as stated above. And, yes, the butter is doubled, but it loses moisture volume as it cooks on the stove top.
I’m so sorry to hear you had trouble with the formula and that you needed to add more flour to form the ball. Did you brown the butter for 20 minutes? What type of butter/flour are you using?
Best,
~ Paula
May 16th, 2009 at 11:30 amI checked Nicole’s recipe and it calls for 6 tbsp butter (which is about 90 g; the same as in David’s recipe). The quantity of flour is also the same (1 cup = 5 oz). In your version, the quantity of butter per 2 cups flour is 12 oz, i.e. 6 oz per cup of flour (= 170 g).
But hey, it works in your kitchen. I guess I was too careful when heating butter due to your warning not to let it overcook. However, butter (I am using regular French butter) has 82% fat and not too much to loose when heated.
I will be trying the “David” version today. I hope it works; your recipe for the filling is tempting.
P.S.: You say that Tarte Tatin at Berthillon is one of your favourites. I had it but did not like it much although TT is one of my favourite desserts. Just curious what do you like with it compared to other TT versions. For me, it has too thick apple layer, so the caramel flavour is not so intensive. I prefer (and make) TT with apple (or have you tried peach) quarters, cook for a long time, to get still soft and juicy apples, rich with caramel and with apple freshness just cutting through it.
May 17th, 2009 at 12:32 amOh my gosh, Mat! You are so completely right! I read and re-read that and still saw 12 tablespoons, not 12 oz. My brain must have seen what I was thinking instead of what was written.
I am so sorry you toiled with a recipe that had a typo in it! Please forgive me. I have fixed it now that you helped me see the light - thank you! I do hope the tart shell turned out okay once you added more flour. Wow. That must have been quite rich and buttery!
The Tart Tatin I had at Berthillon was so incredibly caramelicious I could hardly believe it was made of apple. The apples were sliced thick, yes. But, they were so perfectly caramelized that the they were the very the essence of caramel. Nearly translucent. Was it like that for you when you tried it? I have tried to duplicate it, but haven’t succeeded, yet.
I have been looking forward to trying it with pears the next time I have the gumption to make Tart Tatin again. I have not had it with peaches, but it sounds wonderful! Peach pie is my all time favorite, so I am sure I would love it.
Let me know how your tart comes out, and I will try to come up with a way to make my lame typing error up to you.
Cheers,
~ Paula
May 17th, 2009 at 2:45 amThe tart was very nice (just ate it). Brilliant crust with nice nutty flavour.
I added some more cream cheese to the filling to make it denser. Next time, I will change the ratio to add more creme fraiche and less sugar. The pie was a bit to sweet, especially the glaze. Next time, I will use less of it (and perhaps with some more lemon juice added).
I will have to try TT again next time in Paris to re-check. What a difficult task
Definitely try peach version; it is one of the best flavours for me (if you need the recipe, just let me know).
May 17th, 2009 at 7:31 amMat, I am so glad you enjoyed the tart! Which version of the shell did you end up making?
I haven’t made David/Paule’s version yet, but I plan to try it next with fresh berries.
Having more creme fraiche and lemon zest, and slightly less sugar is a great way to go. I did that on my second version and loved it that way, too. I added slightly more cream cheese on the third try, and found the balance to be slightly off as well, and a little too sweet overall. That is actually the version I photographed, above.
I would love it if you shared your peach Tart Tatin recipe! Peaches should start to happen around here in about a month and I can hardly wait. Perhaps I can make my dreadful typing faux pas up to you by making your recipe and posting it on my blog in your honor, in time for the peak of peach season? Let me know what you think…
Cheers,
~ Paula
May 18th, 2009 at 12:39 amHi Paula! That tart looks awesome! I made a tart this weekend for an Iron Chef competition, and it won 2nd place (my other recipe was first though, so no worries!!)(it’s my latest blog post on the site). We’re making pies and tarts in culinary school this week, so i’m sure i’ll have tart fever in no time and might whip this one up too! thanks for sharing!
heather
May 19th, 2009 at 7:26 amHi Heather! Thanks for the compliments!!
Congratulations on your victory!!! You must be a wonderful chef!
I do hope you make the tart, and let me know how it turned out.
Cheers,
~ Paula
May 20th, 2009 at 12:57 pm