by Paula Maack
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Author: Paula
May 31, 2009
This month, the “Waiter There’s Something in My…” event is hosted by Johanna, The Passionate Cook. The theme is Bistro Classics, and I couldn’t be more thrilled. I hope you enjoy my entry as much as I have enjoyed making and eating it.
I had been eager to recreate a dish from our trip to Paris last May, which commemorated our 5-year wedding anniversary, and this seemed like the perfect opportunity. My husband and I dined at many restaurants during our 9-day stay in Paris last year. Many were hits, and a few were misses, but La Fontaine de Mars was one of our absolute favorites.
Located just a few blocks north of the Eiffel Tower and Champs de Mars, on the rue St Dominique in the 7th Arrondissement, is this darling little bistro - a favorite among locals and tourists alike, with it’s red and white checkered tablecloths, stellar service staff, and simply wonderful food.
UPDATE: Fans of La Fontaine de Mars now include President Barack Obama, who just dined there while in France on Saturday, June 6th. It was a romantic date night in Paris with the First Lady, Michelle Obama. Apparently, the food was first tasted by an American food tester, which is all the news today. Let me tell you, I would have loved to have that job for the night! Can I make the sacrifice, and sample delicious Ile Flottant for the sake of my country? Yes I can!!!
The stroll to this restaurant from the Eiffel Tower is so lovely. The residential area we walked through was picturesque, with geranium boxes on windowsills and ornate wrought iron terraces. The buildings were immaculate. I ached to rent a flat at any one of the beautiful apartments we passed on the way to this restaurant. It was such a lovely and elegant neighborhood, and so close to food shopping on the rue Cler, rue Cherche Midi, and so much more, not to mention window views of Le Tour Eiffel from so many of the apartments. I couldn’t help but dream out loud.
If there is one restaurant I would have chosen to dine at twice during our stay, La Fontaine de Mars would be it. Every dish we ordered was perfect, and a few even achieved sublime status. Mind you, that kind of thing does not happen everyday. It is the stuff lasting memories are made of.
The Eggs Poached in Red Wine were phenomenal. And, their Ile Flottant was superb. But, their Artichoke Chevre Salad was so light, tangy and delicious, it seemed the perfect choice for this month’s Waiter There’s Something in my… Bistro Classic! It was the first dish I tasted at La Fontaine de Mars, and I fell in love with it, immediately. The prominent flavors being artichoke, chevre, lemon and thyme - in perfect balance. It was a supreme bistro salad offering, and the memory of it lingers on to this day.
Artichokes are grown here in northern California, not far from where I live, in a town called Castroville. So, that makes it local cuisine. You gotta love that! Furthermore, they are in season and abundant right now - at great prices.
I was once asked by someone “if you could be any vegetable, what would you be?” My reply was instant. “An artichoke, because I like to be devoured slowly. I am deep, with many layers, and I have a big, tender heart. But, if you miss-handle me or rub me the wrong way, you may find I have very sharp claws.”
What can I say? It is the truth.
If someone were to ask me what my favorite vegetable is, my answer would be artichoke as well, because they are sweet, delicious, fun to eat, and taste great with Hollandaise sauce. I love peeling away the endless layers, and gingerly consuming the tender flesh of the leaves, one by one.
Artichokes are such a sensual food item. They also happen to be an aphrodisiac, should that interest you. And, they are especially so when served with Hollandaise, or any other egg-based sauce, such as Mayonnaise.
Ever since I was a little girl I have loved artichokes - madly. Nowadays, I enjoy driving past the fields of artichokes on the way to Monterey. The crops are so wild looking. There is an air of danger about them. Yet, they are intriguing, and I am strangely drawn to them. It makes me wonder what provoked the first person to take apart the daunting plant in order to retrieve and decide to eat the cone-like flower at it’s base.
Whatever the reason, I am so very glad they did.
Following the jump is my recipe for Artichoke Chevre Salad a la La Fontaine de Mars.
I had fun trying to recreate this salad, and the result was very close to the original. Although, I would be fairly disappointed if I could identically duplicate that masterpiece on my first try - with American ingredients, no less.
The Chevre I have access to is not nearly as fantastic as the Chevre in Paris, nor is the thyme. And the artichokes in Paris are very special, as well. I suspect La Fontaine de Mars use hazelnut oil in their salad, but the mildest oil I had on hand was grapeseed oil, so I used that, and it was fine. But, I will acquire some hazelnut oil and try it that way next time, so I can attempt to nail down that subtle aspect only I can tell is missing.
Overall, the recipe was a success. Any differences from the original are relatively minuscule. The salad breakdown and construction are basically the same, and I was most pleased with my results.
Tony was thrilled! I hope you will be also.
Recipe for Artichoke Chevre Salad a la La Fontaine de Mars
Yield: 2 Servings
Ingredients:Method:
Whisk together oil, lemon juice, thyme leaves and shallots until incorporated. Add salt and pepper to taste (taste your Chevre for saltiness first).
Slice artichoke hearts in vertical slices to about 3/8″ thickness. Slice chevre into 5/8″ this slices.
Oil two terrine dishes or cup molds, and line with plastic wrap. Lightly brush inside of plastic with oil/lemon mixture.
Place a layer of artichokes in the bottom of the mold/dish, in a shingled fashion, and brush with oil/lemon mixture. Place slice(s) of chevre on top of shingled artichokes and brush again with the lemon/oil mixture.
Repeat the layering process until you reach the top of each terrine dish or cup mold. Cover each with plastic, and press down lightly to set.
Refrigerate for several hours before turning out onto small plates.
Enjoy!!
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oh i love how you liken yourself to an artichoke, I share this sentinment - i love artichokes, i love eating them, anything (apart from a burger, maybe) that i can enjoy with my fingers without being frowned upon is a winner in my book. such sensual food! plus they’re super healthy! a wonderful dish which i will certainly try - as soon as I can get some decent artichokes around here
June 3rd, 2009 at 2:59 amthanks for contributing to WTSIM!
I love love love artichokes and eat them daily when in season, but just plain steamed
June 9th, 2009 at 5:06 amThis looks very enticing! I must give it a try.
Merci beaucoup
Carolg
Keep working, great job, I love it!
July 20th, 2009 at 11:11 amGood morning. I’m french speaker. You’re post interset me a lot. I think french are according with you. Sorry for languge error
January 11th, 2010 at 12:47 amAs a Newbie, I’m constantly searching on-line for articles which could assist me. Thank you
April 8th, 2010 at 11:49 pm